What whole-house repiping involves
The job replaces the supply lines from the main valve out to every fixture. Drains are a separate question. We map the existing pipe, decide the new routes, and work in stages.
- Walk the house and mark every fixture, shut-off and visible pipe run.
- Choose the material, typically copper or PEX, and agree on it with you.
- Run the new main trunk through the basement first.
- Feed each floor through the shortest practical route, using closets and existing chases.
- Connect fixtures one area at a time so water is back on when we pack up each evening where possible.
- Pressure-test, flush and have the work inspected where a permit applies.
Why North York houses need it
Many postwar houses from the 1950s and early 1960s had galvanized steel supply piping. It rusts from the inside, narrowing until pressure drops and the water turns brown after sitting. Some houses got partial copper updates over the years, leaving galvanized sections buried in walls. Repiping brings the whole system to one material and one standard.
Plumber's tip: Repiping inside the house does not replace the water service under the lawn. If that line is lead, it needs its own job. Ask at (365) 517-5705.
How we write up the job
You get a room-by-room plan showing where openings will be made, which days each bathroom and the kitchen will be out of service, and what patching is included. Drywall repair and painting are listed clearly as in or out of scope. Every new shut-off valve is labelled at the end of the job.
Signs you should call
- Low pressure at several fixtures, worse upstairs.
- Brown or orange water after the house sits overnight.
- Pinhole leaks appearing in old copper.
- Grey, threaded steel pipe visible at the basement ceiling.
- An insurer asking about the type of supply piping.
The water service from the street is covered under lead water service replacement. If only one tap is the issue, faucet repair and replacement may be all you need.
Costs and what affects them
The number of fixtures and floors, the pipe material, how finished the house is and how many openings are needed all change the price. A bungalow with an open basement ceiling is far simpler than a finished split-level. You get a written quote from the walk-through, with drywall work spelled out.
Living through it
Expect dust sheets, some noise and short daytime shut-offs. Clear access to the basement ceiling and the closets we name on the plan saves time each morning. Pets are better kept away from open walls, and a cleared path from the door to the basement stairs speeds up the carrying of pipe and tools.
After the last connection
Before we leave, every fixture is run hot and cold, aerators are cleaned of debris from the new lines, and you are shown the main shut-off and each new branch valve.
Job at a glance
| Category | Pipes |
|---|---|
| Tools | PEX crimp or expansion tools, copper press, test gauge |
| Final test | Air or water pressure test held before drywall repair |
Tell-tale signs
- Galvanized lines with low upstairs pressure
- Pinhole leaks in old copper
- Rust-coloured water first thing in the morning
Steps on the job
- Map every fixture and where lines can run
- Open small access holes in planned spots
- Pull new PEX or copper home runs, fixture by fixture
- Pressure test before walls are closed
Your questions on this one
Copper or PEX for repiping?
Both meet code. PEX is flexible and needs fewer openings in finished walls; copper is rigid and long-proven. The order sheet sets out the trade-offs for your particular house and you choose.
Will I have water during repiping?
On most jobs, yes, at the end of each working day. Some steps need a longer shut-off, and those are scheduled with you.